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Velvet horse amigurumi crochet pattern with flat arms

US G-6 (4.0mm) hook, worsted velvet yarn: 23-round body horse amigurumi with hoof-color legs.

Velvet horse amigurumi crochet pattern with flat arms
IntermediateLevel
4-6 hoursTime
4.0 mmHook
WorstedYarn
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About this pattern

US G-6 (4.0mm) hook, worsted velvet yarn: 23-round body horse amigurumi with hoof-color legs.

The pattern

Written out round by round

Materials

Yarn

  • Plush / velvet yarn (chenille-style), worsted weight — main body color + contrasting hoof color

Accent yarn

  • Small amount of black and white yarn for embroidering the face details

Hook size

  • US G-6 / 4.0 mm

Safety eyes

  • 12 mm, 2 pieces

Stitch markers

  • At least 1, to track the beginning of each round

Stuffing

  • Polyester fiberfill
  • Yarn needle / tapestry needle
  • Scissors

Abbreviations

  • ch = Chain
  • dec = Decrease (invisible decrease recommended)
  • inc = Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
  • MR = Magic Ring
  • sc = Single Crochet
  • sl st = Slip Stitch
  • BLO = Back Loop Only

Muzzle

Round 16 sc in MR. (6)
Round 2inc in each st around. (12)
Rounds 3–4sc in each st around. (12)
Round 53 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc. (10)
Round 63 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 3 sc. (12)
Round 7sc, inc repeat 6 times. (18)
Round 818 sc. (18)Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the muzzle onto the head. Do not stuff.

Legs (make 2)

Begin with hoof color yarn.

Round 16 sc in MR. (6)
Round 2inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3sc in BLO in each st around. (12)
Round 4Change to body color yarn. sc in each st around. (12)
Round 54 sc, dec, dec, 4 sc. (10)Stuff the foot section only (the hoof area). Leave the upper leg unstuffed.
Rounds 6–11sc in each st around. (10)After Rnd 11, fold the leg flat and sc across the opening — 5 sc to close. The leg is now flat and ready to be crocheted into the body.

Arms (make 2)

Begin with hoof color yarn.

Round 17 sc in MR. (7)
Round 2sc in BLO in each st around. (7)
Rounds 3–8Change to body color yarn. sc in each st around. (7)Do not stuff the arms. After Rnd 8, fold flat and sc across the opening — 3 sc to close. Arms are flat and ready to be crocheted into the body.

Ears (make 2)

Round 16 sc in MR. (6)
Round 2inc in each st around. (12)Fold the ear flat and sew through both layers along the open edge to close. Leave a long tail for attaching the ears to the head.

Body

Round 16 sc in MR. (6)
Round 2inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3sc, inc repeat 6 times. (18)
Round 42 sc, inc repeat 6 times. (24)
Round 5sc in each st around. (24)
Round 6Attach legs — 4 sc along body, 5 sc worked together with first leg (holding leg flat against body and crocheting through both), 7 sc along body, 5 sc worked together with second leg, 3 sc along body. (24)
Round 724 sc, plus 1 additional sc to shift the working position to the center back. (24)
Round 86 sc, dec 6 times, 6 sc. (18)
Rounds 9–11sc in each st around. (18)
Round 12sc, dec repeat 6 times. (12)
Round 13Attach arms — 2 sc along body, 3 sc worked together with first arm (crocheting through body and arm simultaneously), 3 sc along body, 3 sc worked together with second arm, 1 sc. (12)
Round 14sc in each st around. (12)Work 1 additional sc if needed to align the starting point before joining the muzzle.
Round 15Joining the Muzzle Place the muzzle against the front of the body with the opening facing outward. Work as follows: 4 sc along the body, then on the muzzle skip 2 sts from the knot and starting from the 3rd stitch work 2 sc, inc repeat 4 times then 2 sc, then return to the body — skip 4 sts on the body and starting from the 5th stitch work 3 sc, inc. (27)
Round 164 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc. (30)
Round 17sc in each st around. (30)
Round 183 sc, dec repeat 6 times. (24)
Round 19sc in each st around. (24)
Round 202 sc, dec repeat 6 times. (18)
Round 21sc in each st around. (18)
Round 22sc, dec repeat 6 times. (12)
Round 23dec 6 times. (6)Pull the opening closed. Leave a long yarn tail — use it to cinch and shape the safety eyes once inserted.

Assembly

Step 1Insert safety eyes before fully closing Rnd 23. Position them symmetrically on the head, approximately between Rnds 17–18, on either side of where the muzzle joins the body. Secure the backings firmly.
Step 2Attach the ears using the long tail left after closing each ear. Position them on top of the head, evenly spaced, and sew down securely using a whipstitch. Weave in tails on the inside.
Step 3Embroider the face details using black yarn for nostrils and any facial expression lines, and white yarn for any highlight accents — arrange these to your personal taste.
Step 4Decorate as desired — a yarn mane along the top of the head and neck area is a wonderful finishing touch. Cut strands of yarn, fold them, and loop them through stitches along the center back of the head.
Step 5Weave in all remaining ends carefully on the inside of the piece.

Tester's notes

Use a US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook as the pattern's baseline; adjust up or down only if Rnd 2 of a test piece cups or gaps rather than lying flat.

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round — all pieces work in continuous spiral with no joining, so the marker is the only way to track round starts.

Legs change from hoof color to body color at Rnd 4; arms change at Rnd 3 (after a BLO round at Rnd 2). Carry the old color loosely inside the piece instead of cutting it if a hoof-color detail repeats later.

Do not stuff the arms — after Rnd 8 they are closed flat with a 3-sc seam and set aside for attaching flat against the body.

Insert the 12 mm safety eyes before fully closing Rnd 23 of the body, positioned symmetrically between Rnds 17–18 on either side of the muzzle join; backings need to be secured while the round is still open enough to reach inside.

This pattern is written in US crochet terminology. Stitch counts are given at the end of each round in parentheses, e.g. (##), and all pieces are worked in a continuous spiral — do not join at the end of each round unless instructed.

Plush/velvet yarn hides stitch definition beautifully, so don't stress about perfectly even tension — the finished piece will look polished regardless.

Keep your tension snug throughout. Plush yarn is forgiving visually, but loose stitches will let fiberfill peek through gaps. If you're finding the fabric too open, drop down to a 3.5 mm hook.

Use the invisible decrease for every dec. Insert your hook through the front loops only of the next two stitches, yarn over and pull through both front loops, then complete the stitch as normal. This eliminates the small hole a standard decrease creates — especially noticeable in the head shaping.

Stuff the foot firmly, the body moderately. A well-stuffed foot helps the horse stand (or perch) upright. The body should be firm but not stretched — if you can see the stuffing color through the yarn, you've gone too far.

When attaching arms and legs through the body, slow down and make sure you're catching the flat folded edge evenly. If a limb twists, it won't hang correctly. A stitch marker through the center fold of each limb helps keep it aligned before you crochet it in.

Plush yarn tangles easily — keep your yarn cake in a zippered bag or bowl while you work to stop it from shedding and tangling as you pull lengths through.

At a glance

Rounds39
Parts5
LevelIntermediate
Time4-6 hours
Hook4.0 mm
YarnWorsted

Gauge check

After Rnd 2 of the muzzle or leg (12 sc), check that the circle lies flat with no cupping or rippling at the edge.

If it cups, size up the hook; if it ripples, size down — gauge itself is not critical, but stitch tightness needs to keep stuffing from showing through.

Stitch-count checkpoints

  • Muzzle · Round 2: 12 sts
  • Muzzle · Round 5: 10 sts
  • Muzzle · Round 7: 18 sts
  • Muzzle · Round 8: 18 sts
  • Legs (make 2) · Round 2: 12 sts
  • Legs (make 2) · Round 4: 12 sts

If something looks wrong

The muzzle or leg circle cups instead
Tension is too tight for the 4.0 mm hook at this stitch count (12 sc). Loosen the working tension or move up a hook size and recheck before continuing.
The hoof color band on a leg or arm
The color change was made mid-round instead of at the start of the round (leg Rnd 4, arm Rnd 3). Change color right after the last stitch of the prior round, before the marked first stitch of the new round.
Stuffing is visible through the fabric on the body or legs.
Stitches are too loose for the fill. Drop to a smaller hook or tighten tension on the next piece; this pattern treats gauge as flexible but stitch density as fixed.
The arm piece won't close flat cleanly at the top.
The Rnd 8 closing seam was worked with the piece still stuffed or misaligned. Confirm the arm is unstuffed and folded flat before working the 3-sc closing seam across the opening.

Yarn substitutions

Acrylic worsted (non-velvet, smooth)Stitch definition sharpens and the surface loses the plush texture; same hook size works, but stuffing may show at lower tension since smooth acrylic has less loft than chenille-style yarn.
Cotton worstedFabric stiffens and holds shape with less fill, so slightly less fiberfill is needed; drape drops and a 4.0 mm hook may need to size down to 3.5 mm for the same 12-sc circle to lie flat.
Bulky-weight chenilleFinished horse scales up noticeably from the same round counts; move to a 5.0-5.5 mm hook and expect to need more fiberfill per piece to fill the larger stitches.
FAQs

Questions

Do the arms get stuffed like the rest of the body?

No. The pattern specifies leaving the arms unstuffed and closing Rnd 8 flat with a 3-sc seam across the opening, so they lie flat when attached to the body.

When should the safety eyes go in?

Before Rnd 23 of the body is fully closed, positioned symmetrically between Rnds 17-18 on either side of the muzzle join. Closing the round first makes it difficult to reach inside to secure the backings. A good trick is to use straight pins or locking stitch markers as placeholders before committing — step back and look at the face from a distance before snapping the backings on permanently. Once the safety eye backings are locked, they cannot be removed without damaging the yarn.

Can I use regular worsted yarn instead of plush chenille yarn?

Yes, you can substitute a standard worsted weight yarn and the pattern will still work with the same hook size. Keep in mind that the texture will be noticeably different — regular yarn will show your stitch definition more clearly, which means your tension needs to be more consistent. The finished horse will also feel firmer and less velvety than the plush version.

Why are limbs crocheted into the body instead of sewn on?

Crocheting the limbs directly into the body creates a much stronger and more secure attachment than sewing them on afterward — this is especially important for a toy that will be handled by young children. It also gives the limbs a clean, neat look with no visible seam at the join point. The technique takes a little practice but becomes very natural after your first attempt.

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