Made and counted by Wren —

Small amigurumi bear pattern with a 2.5 mm hook

2.5 mm hook, fine cotton yarn: works up a 9-11 cm amigurumi bear with 6 mm eyes.

IntermediateLevel

4-6 hoursTime

2.5 mmHook

SportYarn

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About this pattern

A 9-11 cm amigurumi bear made with a 2.5 mm hook, fine cotton yarn, and 6 mm safety eyes. The head is worked in continuous rounds from a 6 sc magic circle, doubling to 12 then 24 stitches by round 4, across 11 rounds total. Legs are crocheted in pairs with the yarn left uncut after the second leg so it feeds directly into the body round, keeping tension and color consistent at the join.

This is a small amigurumi bear worked in continuous rounds of single crochet with a 2.5 mm hook and fine cotton yarn. The head starts from a magic circle at 6 sc and doubles through round 2 to 12, then increases again through round 4 to 24 stitches before the remaining rounds shape the crown, 11 rounds total. Finished size lands at 9-11 cm, and 6 mm eyes are set into the head before stuffing. Legs are worked in pairs and the yarn is carried, not cut, straight into the body round.

The pattern

Written out round by round

Materials

Kartopu byby cotton
Hook: 2.5 mm
Eyes: 6 mm
Size: 9-11 cm

Abbreviations

sc = single crochet
inc = increase
dec = decrease
R = round

Head

Round 16 sc in mc (6)

Round 2(inc)*6 (12)Step by step: 12 sc (4 rows) Don’t cut the yarn when you’ll finish the second leg.

Round 3(1 sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4(2 sc, inc)*6 (24)

Round 5(3 sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6(4 sc, inc)*6 (36)

Rounds 7–1236 sc (6 rows)

Round 13(4 sc, dec)*6 (30)

Round 14(3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

Round 15(2 sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 16(1 sc, dec)*6 (12)

Legs and body (one piece)

Size

Abbreviations: R = row mc = magic circle sc = single crochet inc = 2 sc in the next stitch dec = single crochet 2 stitches together

(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row (…) *6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

Body

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Tester's notes

2.5 mm hook is the basis for the 9-11 cm finished size; swapping hooks without resizing will shift the count-to-measurement ratio given in the pattern.

Place a marker at the start of round 1 and move it up each round through all 11 rounds of the head, since the piece is worked in a continuous spiral with no joining chain to mark the boundary.

Tension needs to stay tight enough that the 6 sc magic circle and the 12-to-24 stitch increases at rounds 2-4 don't gap, or stuffing will show through the fine cotton fabric.

The step-by-step note for the legs is explicit: don't cut yarn after finishing the second leg. Carry it straight into the body round instead of fastening off and rejoining.

Stuff the head in stages as rounds build past round 4, since the opening narrows again on the way to closing and a dense first pass at round 1-2 makes later access harder.

At a glance

Rounds	11
Parts	3
Level	Intermediate
Time	4-6 hours
Hook	2.5 mm
Yarn	Sport

Gauge check

After round 4 of the head, count stitches before moving on: the round should read 24 sc, matching the (2 sc, inc)*6 sequence.

If the count runs short or long there, the fabric will drift from the stated 9-11 cm finished size, so unravel back to round 1 and rework the magic circle and increases at a tighter or looser tension rather than pressing on.

Stitch-count checkpoints

Head · Round 3: 18 sts
Head · Round 6: 36 sts
Head · Round 15: 18 sts
Head · Round 16: 12 sts

If something looks wrong

The magic circle at round 1 leaves a visible hole at the center of the head.: The tail wasn't pulled tight enough after the initial 6 sc. Cinch the starting loop firmly before working round 2's increases.
The stitch count at round 4 comes out above or below 24.: An increase was skipped or doubled inside the (2 sc, inc)*6 repeat. Count stitches at the end of every round through round 4 and correct immediately rather than later.
The two legs sit uneven when the body round begins.: Yarn was cut and rejoined after the first leg, losing the tension reference. Keep yarn attached after the second leg as the pattern directs so both legs feed into the body at matching tension.
The finished bear measures noticeably outside the 9-11 cm range.: Overall tension is looser or tighter than the 2.5 mm hook basis. Rework a test head with a half-size smaller or larger hook and compare against the stated round counts before committing to a full bear.

Yarn substitutions

Sport-weight acrylic	Produces a similar stitch count but a softer, less defined surface than cotton; stuffing may show through more at low tension, so hold the hook at 2.5 mm but work slightly tighter than with cotton.
DK-weight cotton-acrylic blend	Pushes the finished size above the stated 9-11 cm at the same round counts; drop to a 2 mm hook to bring the bear back toward the original size and keep the fabric dense enough to hide fiberfill.
Fingering-weight mercerized cotton	Shrinks the bear below 9 cm at the same 11 rounds and stitch counts; move to roughly a 2 mm hook for stitch definition, and expect the 6 mm eyes to look proportionally larger on the smaller head.

Original pattern: https://onrecip.com/free-little-bears-amigurumi-crochet-pattern/

FAQs

Questions

What finished size should the bear end up at?

The pattern states 9-11 cm using a 2.5 mm hook and 6 mm safety eyes. That range assumes the stitch counts at rounds 1-4 (6, 12, 18, 24) come out tight; looser tension pushes the result toward the upper end or beyond.

Why does the head take 11 rounds to complete?

The first four rounds build the widest part of the head, going from 6 sc to 24 sc through steady increases. The remaining rounds level out and then shape the closing, bringing the total to 11 rounds for a rounded head rather than a flat disc.

Is it necessary to cut the yarn between the two legs?

No. The pattern's step-by-step note specifically says not to cut the yarn after finishing the second leg. Leaving it attached lets the working yarn carry straight into the body round.