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Mushroom amigurumi pattern: making Elliot in chenille yarn

5mm hook, bulky chenille yarn: crochet Elliot, a mushroom amigurumi with legs, arms, and overalls.

Mushroom amigurumi pattern: making Elliot in chenille yarn
IntermediateLevel
4-6 hoursTime
5 mmHook
BulkyYarn
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About this pattern

This pattern makes Elliot, a chenille yarn mushroom amigurumi with a body, head, mushroom cap, two arms, and a single visible leg, plus an optional pair of overalls. A 5mm hook, 12mm safety eyes, and polyester stuffing are required. The body shapes through an increase round to 42 stitches then decreases back to 36, and the head takes four rounds to complete.

Elliot is a chenille amigurumi mushroom built from five separate pieces: two arms started in an 8-stitch magic ring, one leg chained from 20 stitches and seamed flat, a body that joins the leg mid-round, a head worked over four rounds, and a mushroom cap worked in a single round. The body's stitch count swings from 36 up to 42 and back to 36, so tracking round numbers matters more than counting stitches by eye. Overalls are optional and worked separately in green chenille.

The pattern

Written out round by round

Materials

  • Chenille yarn (Honey Bunny brand was used in the original):
  • Beige (for the body)
  • Red (for the cap)
  • Green (for the overalls)
  • White (for decorative hearts, optional)
  • Crochet hook: 5mm
  • Safety eyes: 12mm
  • Stitch marker
  • Scissors
  • Stuffing (polyester fiberfill)
  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Abbreviations

  • mr = magic ring
  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • flo = front loops only
  • inc = increase
  • dec = decrease
  • sl-st = slip stitch

Arms (Make 2)

Work in body color (beige):

Step by step: Work in body color (beige):.

Round 18sc in mr​R2. (1sc, 1inc) x4 ​ R3. 5sc, 2inc, 5sc ​ R4-5. 14sc (2 rounds) ​ Fasten off only on the first leg!R2-15. 8sc (14 rounds)​ Fasten off. No need to leave a tail. Stuff the arms slightly.

First Leg

Work in green: R1. Ch20

Round 2Connect to 1st ch with a sc, and sc in each ch Fasten off. No need to leave a tail.

Body

Continue in body color:

Round 6Ch 4 at the end of 5th row, and join to first leg with a sc on it’s last stitch (it’ll be your 1st stitch of the leg), then 13sc in the remaining stitches, sc in each ch, 14sc, sc in each chR7-8. 36sc (2 rounds) Begin stuffing legs, and keep stuffing as you go.R9. (5sc, 1inc) x6 R10-12. 42sc (3 rounds)R13. (5sc, 1dec) x6 R14-17. 36sc (4 rounds)R18. (4sc, 1dec) x6 R19-20. 30sc (2 rounds)R21. (3sc, 1dec) x6 R22-24. 24sc (3 rounds)R25. (2sc, 1dec) x6 ​

Head

Remember to keep stuffing! Stuff the neck firmly so that the head doesn’t wobble.

R32-37. 36sc (6 rounds) Insert safety eyes between R34-35. Leave 5-6 visible stitches between them, but choose the placement that works best for you!

R38. (4sc, 1dec) x6 R39. (3sc, 1dec) x6

Round 40(2sc, 1 dec) x6 ​R41. (1sc, 1dec) x6 ​ R42. flo 12inc R43. (3sc, 1inc) x6
Round 44(4sc, 1 inc) x6
Round 45(5hdc, 1inc hdc) x6
Round 46(6dc, 1inc dc) x6

Mushroom Cap

Change to cap color (red): R47-49. 48sc (3 rounds)

R50. (6sc, 1dec) x6 R51. (5sc, 1dec) x6 R52. (4sc, 1dec) x6 R53. (3sc, 1dec) x6

Round 54(4sc, 1 dec) x4R55. (2sc, 1dec) x5 ​ R56. (1sc, 1dec) x5 ​

R57. 5dec​ Fasten off. Leave a tail to sew the hole closed. The designer didn’t stuff the cap, but you can if you prefer! At this point you have finished the main pattern for Elliot. You can add some white spots on the cap for an authentic mushroom look. You can also add some blush to the cheeks or embroider a mouth if preferred.

Assembly

Step 1Once all pieces are complete, it’s time to bring Elliot to life! Make sure all ends are securely woven in and the head is firmly stuffed to prevent wobbling. Consider adding these charming details:
Step 2White spots on the red mushroom cap using small circles of white yarn
Step 3Rosy cheeks with fabric blush or pink yarn
Step 4An embroidered smile for extra personality
Step 5Small white heart appliques on the overalls

Tester's notes

5mm hook: use it throughout, including the First Leg's chain-20 row, but keep tension slightly looser there so the strip doesn't curl.

12mm safety eyes: place them after the head's fourth round is complete and before stuffing, since they cannot be repositioned once fiberfill is packed in.

Stitch marker: move it at the start of every body and head round; losing track makes the increase round (R9, to 42 stitches) and decrease round (R13, back to 36) land unevenly.

Stuffing: stuff the arms only slightly, per the pattern's own instruction, but stuff the legs continuously starting at body rounds 7-8, adding fiberfill as each round finishes rather than all at once at the end.

Work in progress

Mushroom amigurumi pattern: making Elliot in chenille yarn — photo 2
Mushroom amigurumi pattern: making Elliot in chenille yarn — photo 3

At a glance

Rounds8
Parts5
LevelIntermediate
Time4-6 hours
Hook5 mm
YarnBulky

Gauge check

After round 1 of the Arms (8sc in a magic ring), the circle should close flat with no gap at the center; if it gaps, pull the magic ring tail tighter or drop to a smaller hook.

Count stitches at the end of arm round 3 (5sc, 2inc, 5sc) — the total should read 14 to match rounds 4-5; if the count is off, an increase was skipped or doubled and the round needs to be reworked before continuing.

If something looks wrong

The leg piece curls into a tube instead of lying flat.
The First Leg is a chain of 20 worked back in single crochet, not joined into a round; curling means the return row is too tight — loosen tension and block flat before seaming it to the body.
The body bulges unevenly around round 9 or round 13.
These are the increase round ((5sc, 1inc) x6 to 42 stitches) and decrease round ((5sc, 1dec) x6 back to 36); uneven bulging means the increases or decreases landed in different spots each time — space them exactly 5 stitches apart, using the stitch marker to confirm the round start first.
The head wobbles after assembly is finished.
This means stuffing near the neck join isn't firm enough; unstuff and repack solidly, especially where the head meets the 36-stitch body opening.
The arm doesn't reach 14 stitches after round 3.
Round 2 should total 12 stitches from (1sc, 1inc) x4, and round 3's 5sc, 2inc, 5sc adds exactly 2 more; if the count is off, one of the two increases was worked as a plain single crochet — recount from round 2 and redo round 3.

Yarn substitutions

Worsted-weight cotton (non-chenille, 4-ply)Produces a firmer, less plush surface with clearer stitch definition, which makes round counts easier to track but loses the velvety chenille texture. Hook size can stay at 5mm.
Bulky-weight acrylicYields a larger finished Elliot than the chenille original since each stitch covers more area; drop to a 4mm hook to keep the fabric tight enough to hide stuffing, or accept the larger finished size.
DK-weight cotton-acrylic blendMakes a smaller, denser Elliot with crisper stitch definition; move to a 3.5-4mm hook, since the pattern's stitch counts (36-42 in the body) will produce a smaller circumference at a finer gauge.
FAQs

Questions

Why does the body join the leg mid-round instead of after the leg is finished?

Round 6 chains 4 stitches and connects directly to the last stitch of the First Leg with a single crochet, folding the leg into the body's stitch count within the same round. This skips a separate seaming step and keeps the leg's placement locked to the round-by-round stitch count.

Are the overalls required to finish Elliot?

No. Overalls are listed as an optional add-on worked in green chenille after the body, head, and cap are complete. The finished amigurumi is complete without them.

What does 'fasten off only on the first leg' mean in the Arms section?

It flags that among two identical 'make 2' pieces, only one is fastened off separately while its counterpart's working loop feeds directly into the next assembly step. Check which specific piece a note applies to before cutting yarn, since the instruction is not identical for every matched pair.

One at a time —

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