Made and counted by Wren —

Frog amigurumi pattern with joined leg construction

5 mm hook, worsted-weight plush yarn: a frog amigurumi with legs joined into a 33-round body.

Frog amigurumi pattern with joined leg construction
EasyLevel
4-6 hoursTime
5 mmHook
WorstedYarn
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About this pattern

A frog amigurumi worked in Alize Velluto with a 5 mm hook, built from five parts — two upper legs, two lower legs, one 33-round body — joined during construction instead of sewn at the end. Both lower legs (28 sc each) crochet directly into the body's 70-stitch round 1. Two skeins of main color cover the body; a second color forms the belly. Finished size is about 25 cm. Rated easy.

This amigurumi frog builds from five separate pieces — two upper legs, two lower legs, one body — joined mid-construction rather than sewn on at the end. The lower legs are worked to 28 stitches each, then both feed directly into a 70-stitch round 1 of the body, skipping a seam. The body itself spans 33 rounds, worked in Alize Velluto with a 5 mm hook. Eye bases and belly are worked as separate pieces to attach afterward. The one count to track: 28 stitches per lower leg before the join, since a miscount there throws off the body's starting 70.

The pattern

Written out round by round

Materials

Yarn

  • Alize Velluto (100 g / 68 m), main color 532 (2 skeins), additional color for the belly
  • A bit of plush yarn for embroidering the cheeks
  • Black thread for the face details
  • Crochet hook 5 mm
  • Safety eyes 12 mm
  • Stuffing for toys
  • Stitch markers
  • Pins
  • Needle for sewing parts together
  • Scissors

Abbreviations

  • MR = magic ring
  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • inc = increase
  • dec = decrease
  • (…) x n = repeat n times

Upper leg

Make 2

Crochet with the main color. Do not stuff this piece.

Round 16 sc into MR. (6 sc)
Round 26 inc. (12 sc)
Rounds 3–612 sc. (4 rows) (12 sc)
Round 7Fold the piece in half and crochet together with 6 sc. Fasten off. (6 sc)

Lower leg

Make 2

Crochet with the main color. Fasten off after the first leg. Crochet the second leg the same way, but do not fasten off after row 7 — continue directly into crocheting the body.

Round 17 sc into MR. (7 sc)
Round 27 inc. (14 sc)
Round 3(1 sc, inc) x 7. (21 sc)
Round 4(2 sc, inc) x 7. (28 sc)
Rounds 5–728 sc. (3 rows), sl st. (28 sc)

Body

The 2 sl st worked at the leg joins in Round 1 are not counted in the stitch total; they are done to avoid holes in the next round.

In the round after Rounds 11–20, crochet the upper legs into the body as you go, stuffing as you proceed.

Round 1Chain 7 and join with the first leg, crochet 28 sc around the leg, sl st into the joining loop, 7 sc across the chain, sl st into the joining loop, 28 sc around the second leg, 7 sc across the chain. (70 sc)
Round 2dec, 25 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 25 sc, dec, 6 sc. (66 sc)
Round 3dec, 24 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 24 sc, dec, 5 sc. (62 sc)
Rounds 11–2062 sc. (10 rows) (62 sc)
Round 2111 sc, 6 sc over the upper leg, 23 sc, 6 sc over the other upper leg, 16 sc. (62 sc)
Rounds 22–2362 sc. (2 rows) (62 sc)
Round 2429 sc, dec, 29 sc, dec. (60 sc)
Round 254 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc. (54 sc)
Round 26(7 sc, dec) x 6. (48 sc)
Round 273 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc. (42 sc)
Round 28(5 sc, dec) x 6. (36 sc)
Round 292 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc. (30 sc)
Round 30(3 sc, dec) x 6. (24 sc)
Round 311 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, 1 sc. (18 sc)
Round 32(1 sc, dec) x 6. (12 sc)
Round 336 dec; fasten off and close the opening. (6 sc)

Eye base

Make 2

Crochet with the main color.

Round 17 sc into MR. (7 sc)
Round 27 inc. (14 sc)
Round 3(1 sc, inc) x 7. (21 sc)
Rounds 4–621 sc. (3 rows), sl st. (21 sc)Fasten off. Insert the eyes between rows 5 and 6.

Belly

Crochet the belly with the additional (contrast) color.

Round 17 sc into MR. (7 sc)
Round 27 inc. (14 sc)
Round 3(1 sc, inc) x 7. (21 sc)
Round 41 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 6, 1 sc. (28 sc)
Round 5(3 sc, inc) x 7. (35 sc)
Round 62 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 6, 2 sc. (42 sc)
Round 7(5 sc, inc) x 7. (49 sc)
Round 83 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 6, 3 sc; finish with a sl st, fasten off. (56 sc)

Assembly

Step 1Attach the eye bases and add stuffing. Ensure that the eyes (already inserted) are positioned correctly and not crooked.
Step 2Sew the belly to the body.
Step 3Embroider the mouth with black cotton thread and the cheeks with pink plush yarn, making 4-5 stitches.

Tester's notes

5 mm hook holds Alize Velluto's plush strand without splitting it; sizing down tightens the fabric enough to keep stuffing from showing through the single crochet.

2 skeins of main color 532 cover the body, both leg pairs, and eye bases — order the belly's second color separately since it isn't included in that count.

12 mm safety eyes go in before the eye bases are stuffed and attached, not after — check they sit level against each other before locking the washers.

28 stitches on the second lower leg carry straight into round 1 of the body without fastening off; place a stitch marker at the join to avoid losing count across that transition.

Stuff the body and eye bases firmly while working the final rounds, not after closing — the pattern specifically holds off stuffing the upper legs, so keep those two pieces empty.

Difficulty level: easy.

Finished size is about 25 cm. The pattern author used Alize Velluto but notes Himalaya Dolphin Baby or similar plush yarns also work.

At a glance

Rounds37
Parts5
LevelEasy
Time4-6 hours
Hook5 mm
YarnWorsted

Gauge check

After round 2 of the upper leg, 12 sc should close into a firm, dense circle with the magic ring hole fully hidden — plush yarn shows gaps easily if tension runs loose.

If the fabric feels loose enough to let stuffing show through, drop to a smaller hook and re-check round 2 before starting round 3.

Stitch-count checkpoints

  • Upper leg · Round 1: 6 sts
  • Upper leg · Round 2: 12 sts
  • Upper leg · Rounds 3–6: 12 sts
  • Upper leg · Round 7: 6 sts
  • Lower leg · Round 1: 7 sts
  • Lower leg · Round 2: 14 sts

If something looks wrong

The frog's legs sit crooked instead of
Round 21 crochets the upper legs into the body across 6 stitches on each side — an uneven count there (more than 6 on one leg) pulls that leg forward. Recount the 6-stitch spans before finishing the round.
A hole opens where the legs meet the body's starting chain.
The 2 slip stitches worked at each leg join in round 1 aren't part of the 70-stitch count and exist specifically to close that gap; skipping them is the usual cause. Add them back in on the next repeat of round 1 if a hole shows.
The body pulls narrower than expected by round 3.
Round 3 decreases from 66 to 62 stitches across four points; a fifth accidental decrease drops the count further and narrows the tube. Count stitches after round 3 and compare to 62 before continuing.
The eyes end up crooked once the eye base is attached.
Eyes are inserted before the eye base is stuffed and sewn on, so position drifts if the base isn't checked against the body first. Pin the eye base in place and confirm both eyes sit level before sewing.

Yarn substitutions

Worsted-weight cotton-acrylic blendFirmer stitch definition than the plush original, less halo to hide small tension mistakes, same 5 mm hook holds gauge.
DK-weight acrylic velvet-style yarnFinished frog runs smaller than the 100 g / 68 m original, so drop to a 4 mm hook and add extra stuffing to keep the body from looking hollow.
Bulky-weight chenille or velvet yarnPiece grows larger, drape gets floppier around the legs, size up to a 6 mm hook and expect fewer than 2 skeins to cover the body.
FAQs

Questions

Why does the pattern say not to stuff the upper legs?

The upper legs get crocheted directly into the body during round 21, and stuffing happens then as part of the body's own fill. Adding stuffing earlier just makes that join bulkier and harder to work through.

Can the second lower leg be fastened off instead of continuing into the body?

No — round 1 of the body chains 7 and joins directly to both lower legs in one continuous round, reaching a 70-stitch total. Fastening off the second leg early breaks that join and leaves no way to reach the required stitch count without re-joining yarn.

How much yarn is needed for the belly?

The pattern doesn't give a gram amount for the additional belly color, only that it's used for the 8-round belly piece while the plush cheeks are worked separately. A small remnant skein covers it since the belly is one flat piece, not the whole body.

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