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Crochet unicorn amigurumi pattern guide

4.0 mm hook, bulky chenille yarn: build an amigurumi unicorn with head, body, skirt, horn, and wings.

Crochet unicorn amigurumi pattern guide
IntermediateLevel
4-6 hoursTime
4.0 mmHook
BulkyYarn
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About this pattern

An amigurumi unicorn built in parts: an 18-round head and muzzle, a 23-round body, a 2-round skirt option crocheted onto the body before stuffing, 10-round front legs, 13-round wings, an 8-round horn on a smaller 3.5 mm hook, 5-round ears, plus spiral mane and tail strands. Rated intermediate; takes continuous-spiral amigurumi experience, five yarn colors, and 16-18 mm safety eyes.

This amigurumi unicorn starts with a continuous-spiral head and muzzle worked over 18 rounds, moves into a 23-round body, and adds an optional two-round skirt (Option A) crocheted directly onto the body before stuffing. Separate pieces — front legs (10 rounds), wings (13 rounds), an 8-round horn worked on a smaller 3.5 mm hook, and 5-round ears — join afterward along with spiral mane and tail strands. The number to track: the skirt's 2 rounds must go on while the body is still empty or lightly stuffed, not after.

The pattern

Written out round by round

Materials

Hook

  • US G-6 / 4.0 mm (use US E-4 / 3.5 mm for the horn only)

Yarn

  • Himalaya Dolphin Baby or equivalent bulky chenille
  • Body color (80301): ≈ 3.5 oz / 100 g
  • Dress/bow color (80346): ≈ 1.2 oz / 35 g
  • Hoof/horn color (80313): ≈ 0.9 oz / 25 g
  • Mane & tail colors (80306, 80307, 80319)

Nostrils

  • color 80319

Polyfill stuffing

  • ≈ 3.2 oz / 90 g

Safety eyes

  • 16–18 mm (black or colored)

False eyelashes

  • 1.5 cm strip (human or craft)
  • Waterproof adhesive (e.g., Gel Moment or similar)
  • Black thread (YarnArt Jeans) for eyelid embroidery
  • White chenille yarn for eyewhite embroidery
  • Cotton swab (for horn reinforcement)
  • Tapestry needle
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Abbreviations

  • ch = chain
  • st = stitch
  • sts = stitches
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • tr = treble crochet
  • inc = increase
  • dec = decrease
  • mr = magic ring
  • blo = back loops only
  • rnd = round
  • rnds = rounds

Part 1: Head / Muzzle

In body color. Worked in continuous spiral rounds.

Step by step: In hoof color.

Round 16 sc in mr. (6)Sl st in first ch, ch 3 (counts as first tr), [1 tr, inc (tr-based)] to end of round. Sl st in first st of Rnd 2 to join.Step by step: Fasten off and finish as above.

If you tend to crochet tightly, substitute treble crochet (tr / 3 wraps) for double treble in Option B.

Round 2Inc x6. (12)
Round 3[1 sc, inc] x6. (18)
Round 41 sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] x5, 1 sc. (24)Step by step: 24 sc BLO. (24).
Round 5[5 sc, inc] x4. (28)
Rounds 6–728 sc. (28)
Round 86 sc, [2 sc, dec] x4, 6 sc. (24)
Round 99 sc, inc x8, 7 sc. (32)
Round 1032 sc. (32)
Round 117 sc, [1 sc, inc] x10, 5 sc. (42)
Rounds 12–1642 sc. (42)⚠️ Insert safety eyes between Rnds 10 and 11, spaced 6–7 sts apart. Attach lashes to eyes before insertion if desired.
Round 17[5 sc, dec] x6. (36)
Round 1836 sc. (36)
Round 192 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] x5, 2 sc. (30)Begin stuffing.
Round 20[3 sc, dec] x6. (24)
Round 211 sc, dec, [2 sc, dec] x5, 1 sc. (18)Step by step: 18 sc. (18); [2 sc, dec] x4, dec. (13); Change to body color from Rnd 11. Stuff as you go; 13 sc. (13).9 sc. (Do not complete round.) Leave approx. ½ in (1 cm) at top unstuffed. Flatten and sc across: 6 sc through both layers. Leave tail for sewing.
Round 22[1 sc, dec] x6. (12)
Round 23Dec x6. (6)Fasten off. Close opening by weaving yarn through the front loops of the remaining 6 sts. Pull tight, secure, and hide end.

Part 2: Body

Important: Do not fully stuff the body until after the skirt is complete. Work the skirt onto an empty or lightly stuffed body.

In body color.

Round 16 sc in mr. (6)
Round 2Inc x6. (12)
Round 3[1 sc, inc] x6. (18)
Round 41 sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] x5, 1 sc. (24)
Round 5[3 sc, inc] x6. (30)
Round 62 sc, inc, [4 sc, inc] x5, 2 sc. (36)
Round 7[5 sc, inc] x6. (42)
Round 8[13 sc, inc] x3. (45)
Rounds 9–1345 sc. (45)
Round 1445 sc. (45)
Round 15[13 sc, dec] x3. (42)
Round 166 sc, dec, [12 sc, dec] x2, 6 sc. (39)
Rounds 17–1839 sc. (39)
Round 19[11 sc, dec] x3. (36)
Round 205 sc, dec, [10 sc, dec] x2, 5 sc. (33)
Rounds 21–2233 sc. (33)
Round 23[9 sc, dec] x3. (30)
Round 244 sc, dec, [8 sc, dec] x2, 4 sc. (27)
Rounds 25–2627 sc. (27)
Round 27[7 sc, dec] x3. (24)
Rounds 28–2924 sc. (24)
Round 303 sc, dec, [6 sc, dec] x2, 3 sc. (21)
Round 31[5 sc, dec] x3, sl st. (18)Fasten off and hide end. Stuff body fully after skirt is complete.

Option A — Shorter / Tighter Skirt

Round 1Inc (sc-based) x45. (90)
Round 2Sl st in first ch, ch 2 (counts as first dc), [1 dc, inc (dc-based)] to end of round. Sl st in first st of Rnd 2 to join.Fasten off, pull tail down through fabric to starting tail, tie together, hide both ends.

Part 4: Front Legs (Upper Arms)

In hoof color.

Round 16 sc in mr. (6)
Round 2Inc x6. (12)
Round 3[1 sc, inc] x6. (18)
Round 4[5 sc, inc] x3. (21)
Round 521 sc BLO. (21)
Round 621 sc. (21)
Round 7[5 sc, dec] x3. (18)
Round 8[1 sc, dec] x6. (12)Change to body color from Rnd 9. Stuff as you go.
Rounds 9–1812 sc. (12)
Round 19[2 sc, dec] x3. (9)Leave approx. ½ in (1 cm) at top unstuffed. Flatten and sc across opening: 4 sc through both layers. Leave tail for sewing.Make 2.

Part 6: Wings

In body color.

Round 1Ch 4. Starting in 2nd ch from hook: 2 sc, 3 sc in last ch (point), 2 sc along back of chain. (7)
Round 23 sc, inc, 3 sc. (8)
Round 34 sc, inc, 3 sc. (9)
Round 45 sc, inc, 3 sc. (10)
Round 56 sc, inc, 3 sc. (11)
Round 66 sc, inc x3, 2 sc. (14)
Round 78 sc, inc x2, 4 sc. (16)
Round 89 sc, inc x2, 5 sc. (18)
Round 910 sc, inc x2, 6 sc. (20)
Round 1010 sc, dec x2, 6 sc. (18)
Round 119 sc, dec x2, 5 sc. (16)
Round 128 sc, dec x3, 2 sc. (13)
Round 13Dec x2, 2 sc, dec x2. (Do not complete round.) Do not stuff. Flatten and sc across: 4 sc through both layers. Leave tail for sewing.Make 2.

Part 7: Horn

Use hook US E-4 / 3.5 mm if preferred for tighter, firmer fabric.

In horn color.

Round 16 sc in mr (sliding/adjustable). Turn work to opposite side.
Rounds 2–46 sc. (6)
Round 52 sc, dec, 2 sc. (5)
Rounds 6–75 sc. (5)
Round 81 sc, dec, 2 sc. (4)
Round 94 sc. (4)
Round 101 sc, dec, 1 sc. (3)
Round 113 sc, sl st. Fasten off. Close tip by drawing yarn through front loops of 3 remaining sts; pull tight. Secure and hide end.Insert a cotton swab fully into the horn tip for rigidity. Lightly stuff the lower half only (middle to base). Do not over-stuff.

Part 8: Ears

In body color.

Round 16 sc in mr. (6)
Round 2[1 sc, inc] x3. (9)
Round 3[2 sc, inc] x3. (12)
Rounds 4–712 sc. (12)
Round 81 sc, dec x5. (Do not complete round.) Do not stuff. Flatten and sc across: 4 sc through both layers. Leave a long tail for gathering and sewing.To shape the ear base: thread needle through base repeatedly in opposite directions to cinch and create a natural cupped shape.Make 2.

Tail Spirals

Round 1Ch ≈35. Starting in 2nd ch from hook: [1 dc, inc (dc)] across. Make 4–6 spiral strips total.

Mane Spirals

Round 1Ch ≈55. Starting in 2nd ch from hook: [1 dc, inc (dc)] across. Make 4–5 spiral strips total.Leave tails at both the start and end of each strip for sewing. Each strip should have 2 sewing tails.

Assembly

Step 1With all your pieces finished, it’s time to bring Molly to life. Follow this assembly order for the best results

Tester's notes

No stitch markers are listed, but since every part is worked in continuous spiral rounds with no slip-stitch join until a color or round type changes, mark round 1 of each piece to stay oriented.

Bulky chenille yarn has give and little stitch definition, so work each round snug, especially the 6-sc start of Head Rnd 1, so stuffing does not peek through later.

Five colors are in play — body (80301), dress/bow (80346), hoof/horn (80313), and three mane/tail shades (80306, 80307, 80319) — so carry inactive colors inside the work or cut and rejoin at round starts to keep color changes from showing on visible panels like the skirt.

Do not fully stuff the body: per the pattern's own note, work the 2-round Option A skirt onto an empty or lightly stuffed body, then fill it completely only once the skirt is attached.

At a glance

Rounds81
Parts9
LevelIntermediate
Time4-6 hours
Hook4.0 mm
YarnBulky

Gauge check

No gauge swatch is given; instead, check that Head Rnd 1 reads 6 sc in the magic ring and Body Rnd 3 reads 18 stitches before continuing, since the whole piece scales off these early counts.

If a round's stitch count drifts or stuffing shows through the chenille fabric, drop to a smaller hook and re-work that round tighter rather than pushing on.

Stitch-count checkpoints

  • Part 1: Head / Muzzle · Rounds 6–7: 28 sts
  • Part 1: Head / Muzzle · Round 17: 36 sts
  • Part 1: Head / Muzzle · Round 23: 6 sts
  • Part 2: Body · Round 7: 42 sts
  • Part 2: Body · Round 19: 36 sts
  • Part 2: Body · Rounds 28–29: 24 sts

If something looks wrong

The skirt cups instead of lying flat against the body.
Option A's dc-based increases on Rnd 2 are off-count relative to Rnd 1's 90 stitches; recount so increases land evenly across the round, and add missed increases rather than forcing it flat with blocking.
The horn flops instead of standing upright.
This happens when the horn is worked on the 4.0 mm body hook instead of the 3.5 mm (E-4) hook the pattern reserves for Part 7; re-work it on the smaller hook and insert the cotton swab for reinforcement before stuffing lightly.
Stuffing shows through the finished fabric.
Bulky chenille is fuzzy but loosely plied, so loose tension or an oversized hook leaves gaps; drop to a smaller hook and tighten stitches, especially around the Head's 6-sc-in-mr start.
The skirt doesn't sit smoothly against the body once attached.
This points to the body being fully stuffed before the 2-round skirt was worked onto it; per the pattern note, keep the body empty or lightly stuffed through both skirt rounds and fill it fully only afterward.

Yarn substitutions

Cotton, worsted/aran weightProduces a smaller, crisper stitch than the bulky chenille; pairs best with the 3.5 mm (E-4) hook across the whole project, and because cotton compresses differently than chenille, more stuffing per part is typically needed than the ~100 g the pattern lists for the body color.
Acrylic, bulky weight (non-chenille)Works at the pattern's stated 4.0 mm (G-6) hook with similar yardage to the ~3.5 oz / 100 g body color, but the surface shows plainer stitch definition instead of the chenille's soft fuzz, and the finished piece drapes a touch stiffer.
Velvet or plush polyester, bulky weightClosest texture match to the chenille called for, but the slicker fiber needs a tighter hand; some crocheters drop to the 3.5 mm (E-4) hook on more parts than just the Horn to keep stitches from slipping loose.
FAQs

Questions

When should the body get its final stuffing?

Not before the skirt is on. The pattern specifically says to keep the body empty or lightly stuffed while working the 2-round Option A skirt, then stuff fully once that skirt is complete.

How much yarn is needed for each color?

Body color (80301) takes about 3.5 oz / 100 g, dress/bow color (80346) about 1.2 oz / 35 g, hoof/horn color (80313) about 0.9 oz / 25 g, and the three mane/tail colors (80306, 80307, 80319) together run about 3.2 oz / 90 g.

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