Made and counted by Wren —

Chenille Fish Keychain Amigurumi with Top, Bottom, and Side Fins

4mm hook, chunky chenille yarn makes a fish amigurumi keychain with top, bottom, and side fins.

IntermediateLevel

4-6 hoursTime

4 mmHook

ChunkyYarn

Jump to the pattern

About this pattern

This pattern makes a small fish amigurumi sized as a keychain or bag charm, worked in continuous rounds with a 4mm hook and chenille chunky yarn in three colors. The head starts from a 6-stitch magic ring, the body increases to 24 stitches by round 5, and a flattened 8-dc tail finishes the shape. A top fin, bottom fin, and optional side fins attach after stuffing with 8mm safety eyes in place.

This fish keychain amigurumi builds a head, a four-round body, and a tail in continuous rounds, finished with a top fin, a bottom fin, and two optional side fins. The body climbs to 24 stitches at round 5 after a color change, holds steady through rounds 6 to 9, then decreases through rounds 10 to 12 while 8mm safety eyes are set in place. Chenille chunky yarn in three colors marks each section without seams. The number that matters most is the 24-stitch body round at round 5 — every later increase and decrease is calculated from it.

The pattern

Written out round by round

Materials

Scissors
4 mm crochet hook
Stitch markers
Yarn needle
8 mm safety eyes
Chenille chunky yarn in three different colors
Pins
Toy stuffing

Abbreviations

sc = single crochet

Starting with the head

Round 1make 6 single crochets (sc) into a magic ring. Pull yarn to close the ring tightly.(6)

Round 2Perform 6 increases (two single crochets in each stitch from the previous round) to bring the total to 12 stitches.(12)

Round 3After Round 3: Alternate between one single crochet and an increase in each stitch to bring your total stitch count up to 18.(18)

Round 4Single crochet in each stitch around to maintain a total of 18 stitches. Before finishing the last stitch, change to the body color yarn.(18)

Body

Round 5With the new color yarn, perform two single crochets then an increase, repeating all the way around to bring the total stitch count to 24.(24)

Rounds 6–9Single crochet in each stitch around, maintaining 24 stitches in each round.After Round 9: Place safety eyes between rounds 3 and 4, approximately six stitches apart.(24)

Round 10Two single crochets followed by a decrease (invisible decrease by working in the front loops only recommended) to bring the total down to 18 stitches.(18)

Round 11Continue with one single crochet then a decrease to bring the total down to 12 stitches.Start stuffing the fish before the opening gets too small.(12)

Round 12Change to the fin color yarn while performing the last decrease to finish with a total of 8 stitches.(8)

Tail

For the tail, without fastening off, work towards the bottom of the fish and: Close and flatten the bottom of the fish.

Single crochet across to close it up properly with four single crochets through both sides.

Chain one and turn the work, then perform a double crochet increase in each stitch across (8 double crochets total) to create the tail shape.

Secure the yarn and cut it off after the tail is done.

Fins

Top FinAttach yarn between rounds 4 and 5 of the fish body. Chain one, then single crochet, half double crochet increase, double crochet, and then follow the increase pattern. Secure and weave in ends.

Bottom FinSimilar to the top fin but positioned between rounds 7 and 8, inline with the tail for symmetry.

Side FinsOptionally, you can add side fins by attaching yarn at the desired position on either side of the body, chaining three, and then making three double crochets in the same stitch, followed by a chain one, and slip stitch to complete.

Assembly

Step 1Weave in all loose ends.

Step 2Ensure the fish is stuffed to your preferred firmness before closing up all openings.

Tester's notes

4mm hook holds chenille chunky yarn tight enough to hide stuffing without a gauge swatch; swap only if stitches gape at round 2's 12-stitch count.

8mm safety eyes go in after round 9, placed between rounds 3 and 4 and spaced six stitches apart — mark that spot with a stitch marker before stuffing closes the gap.

24 stitches is the fixed count for rounds 6 through 9 of the body; recount after each round before starting the decrease sequence at round 10.

Three colors of chenille yarn change at round 5 of the body; weave in the old tail immediately so chenille's loose fibers don't shed into the stuffing.

Stuffing firmness is left to preference, but pack it before the tail's 4-sc closure at the bottom or the seam will show gaps once the 8 double crochets are worked.

Work in progress

Chenille Fish Keychain Amigurumi with Top, Bottom, and Side Fins — photo 2

Chenille Fish Keychain Amigurumi with Top, Bottom, and Side Fins — photo 3

Chenille Fish Keychain Amigurumi with Top, Bottom, and Side Fins — photo 4

At a glance

Rounds	12
Parts	4
Level	Intermediate
Time	4-6 hours
Hook	4 mm
Yarn	Chunky

Gauge check

No gauge swatch is given, so judge round 1 by stitch count instead: after the magic ring closes to 6 single crochet, the circle should sit flat with no visible gaps between stitches.

Stitch-count checkpoints

Starting with the head · Round 1: 6 sts
Starting with the head · Round 2: 12 sts
Starting with the head · Round 3: 18 sts
Starting with the head · Round 4: 18 sts
Body · Round 5: 24 sts
Body · Rounds 6–9: 24 sts

If something looks wrong

The head cups instead of lying flat after round 2.: Round 2 should carry exactly 12 stitches from the 6-stitch magic ring; a cupped head usually means a missed increase, so recount and re-work any round that comes up short.
The safety eyes sit crooked or too close together.: Eyes go in between rounds 3 and 4 after round 9, spaced six stitches apart; mark both spots with stitch markers before inserting so the gap is even on both sides.
The tail flares unevenly instead of: The tail starts from 4 single crochets worked through both sides of the flattened body, then increases to 8 double crochets in one row; an uneven flare means the increase row wasn't worked in every stitch across those 4.
The side fins pull the body fabric or sit puckered.: Side fins are 3 double crochets worked into one stitch, finished with a chain 1 and slip stitch; working all 3 into a stitch that's already tight from a color change pulls the fabric, so pick a stitch at least one round away from round 5's color change.

Yarn substitutions

Cotton, worsted weight	Produces a firmer, less fuzzy fish with sharper stitch definition than chenille chunky; drops bulk, so size up from the 4mm hook by half a size to keep the 24-stitch body round from gaping, and stuffing shows through less.
Acrylic, worsted weight	Closest weight match to the lighter end of chenille chunky's bulk; holds the 4mm hook's gauge reasonably well but drapes stiffer, and the round 5 color change shows a sharper line than chenille's blended texture.
Velvet or velour, bulky weight	Keeps the soft, plush look of chenille but with less stretch; stuffing needs to go in slightly firmer since velour fabric is denser, and the 4mm hook may need to go up a size to keep the 6-stitch magic ring from pulling too tight.

Original pattern: https://crocheteverything.com/crochet-cute-fish-keychain-amigurumi-pattern-for-key-bag-charm/

FAQs

Questions

Why are the safety eyes placed after round 9 if they sit between rounds 3 and 4?

The eye position is measured from the rounds of the body, not from where the work currently stands; round 9 is simply when the opening is still wide enough to push the eye posts through to rounds 3 and 4 before stuffing closes the gap.

Are the side fins necessary to finish the fish?

No. The pattern lists side fins as optional, worked by attaching yarn at the body, chaining 3, and working 3 double crochets into the same stitch before a chain 1 and slip stitch. The top fin, placed between rounds 4-5, and the bottom fin, placed between rounds 7-8, are the fins described as part of the base shape.